If you don't mind, what food and how much do you feed them

The tank chosen is personal choice, but I don't keep anything smaller than ten-gallon tanks, so those or larger are what I have used for cultures. I have had quite a number of smallish puffers as well as several larger ones at a time for extended periods and needed lots of snails, and multiple snail culture tanks. Most of my dedicated snail culture tanks are purely minimum set-ups. Bare tanks (no substrate) with a filter (air or pump-driven sponges, smallish HOBs, or small internal canisters), plus a heater if needed - tropical temperatures will be more productive than room temperature. I do use lights on these tanks, as algae is valued snail food also. The water should have a GH and KH at least of 4 degree (bit more than 70ppm) for each. Ideal hardness and alkalinity would be above 6 degrees (>100ppm) for each KH and GH. The upkeep done is standard tank care - weekly partials (50% at least) are standard in the cultures as well. If the culture is crowded and your KH/GH are marginal, more than one weekly partial is needed to support those parameters. The snail cultures tend to be moderately heavy bioloads (enough snail biomass to easily pollute the tank - you are using this as food for your fish, you neither want nor need pollution) and the snails use up a lot on minerals from the water that also must be replaced or renewed. Periodic testing of KH and GH should be done to be sure that your partials are maintaining the needed hardness levels. Feeding is done with any prepared fish food, as you do want them to be well nourished and healthy for your fish. Green matter is provided as well by blanched or frozen and thawed dark lettuces, zucchini or other squash, cucumbers (seeds out - they don't eat those, messy), etc. - all the things used also for plant or algae grazing fish. Those items are not specially stocked but generally what is in the refrigerator in a bit of excess. Remember, you are what your prey eats. So for healthy snail predators, you want and need healthy snails, well nourished and gut-loaded.

An overview of the dietary needs of pufferfish, along with links to information on live food.

The Porcupine Pufferfish grows to one foot and needs a 180 gallon tank as an adult. They are the closest thing you can get to a doglike personality in a fish! They will also, like a dog, chew on cords, and may need to be dewormed! These smart fish will learn who you are and that you have something to do with food! Feed them at least 3 times a day with veggie and meaty foods including hard shelled shrimp to help wear down their ever growing teeth. They will try to eat smaller active fish and may nip others. They spend most of their time under a ledge or in a crevice during the day, and come out in the evening. Do not catch with a net, nor tease to inflate, since that can cause them to have air trapped in the alimentary tract. They are also prone to ich, so have treatments available for the inevitable breakout. Best kept by an intermediate aquarist.

Puffers are the best fish to have as pets in my opinion.

I used to keep frogs & turtles, so my puffers got crickets on a regular basis. They were gut loaded with fish food & fed oranges for hydration. Since puffers do not have gill covers or scales, they are thought to be more susceptible to diseases, nitrite, nitrate and ammonia levels. The Golden Puffer is especially sensitive to nitrites and ammonia. Consequently, like all puffers, they are not a good fish to cycle an aquarium with.This puffer fish is a freshwater species and does not require salt. Because they usually don't eat all of their food (messy eaters!), these fish will usually put more load on the aquarium filtration requiring more frequent water changes and better maintenance in general. A generous weekly water change of 30% to 50% is the standard recommendation for a puffer aquarium.The Golden Puffer doesn't require a large aquarium. But if you want to keep more than one or some other species with them, a well planted 50+ gallon tank is recommended. This will give the other fish plenty of room to escape in case they get chased by the puffer(s).

Spotted puffer fish will not eat flake foods or pellets

The Malabar Puffer does not have gill covers or scales which make it more prone to disease. Puffers are normally the first fish in a tank to show signs of ick and will twitch and rub around the tank. They respond well to most medication and normally heal quickly. NEVER use copper in an Malabar Puffer tank.Another common issue, though not a disease; Puffer's teeth grow very fast and if not wore down or clipped will lead to overgrowth and starvation. In an aquarium; even when feeding snails and other shelled foods, there is still normally a chance you will have to trim their teeth. This sound much worse then it is. To accomplish this carefully place puffer in a container of water without exposing them to the air. Add 3 drops of clove oil per liter of water; this will temporarily sedate the puffer so you can hold the puffer in your hand more easily. You will need cuticle clippers; use these to clip bottom and top teeth. Once done put puffer in a container or net that will have the current flowing over them. Once awake release back into tank.However this is extremely unlikely to need to be done with Malabar Puffers as their teeth do not grow at a rapid rate as most puffers and are much softer so the snail shells will wear their teeth down easily.Because the Malabar Puffer may wild caught it could carry internal parasites, so if it hasn't been done a de-worming would be smart. For more information about freshwater fish diseases and illnesses, see .

They need live and frozen foods